Checking in for Louis Vuitton - Ressort 2020 Collection

by - June 04, 2019

As the trend has been with previous resort/ cruise 2020 shows, the top/ most famous ones have had a setting of traveling whether that traveling is considered time traveling as we saw in the Chanel resort 2020 show, or like we experienced in the Louis Vuitton show, also physical travel. During their show we were taken to the retro - vintage TWA Terminal Hotel, one which looks like we’ve stepped into a photographic hotel form the 1950’s - 1960’s. For a bit of history, this terminal closed almost 20 years ago, but it still looms large in the public imagination; this week, after a multiyear renovation, it will reopen as a hotel, complete with 500-plus rooms and an infinity pool.

For this collection, Ghesquière, mentioned that he wanted this collection to “Get him back to that feeling he got when he first came to New York”. As mentioned in Vogue, he was bowled over by the city’s Art Deco landmarks, bright lights, and famous round-the-clock energy. We got to experience increadibly unique pieces specially the juxtaposition of amazing contrasts with fabrics within a same piece, we saw, various pieces, where you saw two to even three patterns and textiles used as layers, in blazers and dresses.



The show in comparison, had a lot of throwbacks to the late 80’s early 90’s trends, like heavy shoulder pads, sequined verticals lines, and styles, baggy elastic hem trousers, and structured styles, specially blazers. Even these styles are highly inspired in this era, we saw the juxtaposition of both modern colors and designs mixed with vintage Elizabethian silhouettes.  We see this in various suits and in mixed with leather. Other than the venue being vintage in style, we also saw this vintage air in the models in the runways, which all rocked very representative hairstyles and make up from this era. Most colors we saw in this show, were darker hues, from deep mustards, to blues, greens, and black. Most of these pieces would serve as increadible night out/ pieces for a night out statement pieces, bet this will cause havoc among its most loyal clientele.
  
We saw this “New Yorkesque” inspiration as he used Wall Street pinstripes for pantsuits, as we can imagine with impeccable tailoring, shirtdresses, mixed with, a decorated, flamboyant collection, dedicated to resurrecting the disappearing art of dressing up and at the same time taking us through different styles all of which can be fit for any of New York’s metropolitan neighborhoods, not to mention appealing, its loyal clientele. 



This show is one to remember in particular much of its unique textile combinations took the crowd to a flash back of the late 80’s and early 90’s featuring boxy and wide shoulders and cliched waists. Main designs featured voluptuous panne velvet draped over the shoulders of going-out tops, tiny glitzy bustiers were studded with crystals, and the famous Chrysler Building bas-relief was picked out in geometric metallic embroideries on a zip-front jacket, as well as on jacquards, a favorite of the crowd. As a foreigner,” Ghesquière said, “I’m not afraid of the clichés.” As a matter of that, we saw layered into the mix were souvenir jackets with skyline embroideries and nods to Gotham superheroes, like Catwoman-ish skullcaps.
Along with this, the collection also features,  batwing sleeves and bubble skirts bringing the public some 1980s flair, and board shorts and cap-toe combat boots taking us to the 1990s. The puffed-sleeve velvet tops? Space-age, Elizabethan designs. It’s the Internet age, and Ghesquière has intuited that we’re all citizens of different decades at once.
In the end, though, this was less about virtual time travel or airplane travel than it was about a destination. With his Resort shows, which tend to be more playful than his Paris collections, Ghesquière uses his venues as reference points, and for this collection New York was a perfect fit.

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